How to Convert Your Bike to an eBike: The Complete Guide

Converting a regular bike into an electric bike is one of the most satisfying projects you can do in a shed. With a modern hub-motor kit, a full conversion is an afternoon's work with basic tools, and you end up with a machine that rides like it cost three times as much.

What's actually in a conversion kit?

A complete rear hub kit like our F1 conversion kits includes the motor already laced into a wheel, a matched dual-mode controller, a handlebar display, a throttle, brake levers with motor cut-off, a pedal-assist (PAS) sensor and a pair of torque arms. Everything is designed to plug together, so there is no guesswork about which controller suits which motor.

The battery is the one big part sold separately, because the right pack depends on the kit you choose and the range you want. More on that below.

Will it fit your bike?

Most bikes with standard 135 to 142 mm rear dropouts will take a hub kit. Hardtail mountain bikes, commuters and fat bikes all make good donors. Pick the wheel size that matches your bike: 26", 27.5" or 29". If you are not sure, email us a photo of your bike and we will confirm the fit before you buy.

Choosing your power level

The honest answer is: match the kit to how you ride. The 1500W kit gives real electric pace without the price of a mid-drive. The 2000W kit is our best-seller, with the extra grunt for steep climbs and heavier riders. The 72V 3000W and 5000W kits are for experienced riders chasing serious off-road speed, and the 6000W combo arrives complete, battery and forks included. We compare them all in our kit comparison guide.

Choosing the battery

Voltage must match your kit: 52V packs pair with the 1500W and 2000W kits, and 72V packs feed the 3000W and 5000W kits. Capacity (Ah) sets your range; our battery range guide explains how to size it.

The install, step by step

1. Remove the rear wheel and fit the motor wheel with your existing tyre and a matched rear sprocket.
2. Seat the axle in the dropouts and fit both torque arms.
3. Mount the controller (a frame bag keeps it tidy) and route the loom along the frame.
4. Fit the display, throttle and the brake levers with cut-off switches.
5. Fit the PAS sensor and magnet disc at the crank.
6. Connect everything, mount the battery, and test with the wheel off the ground before your first ride.

Budget an afternoon with metric spanners, Allen keys, tyre levers and cable ties. If you are in Melbourne, we can install the kit for you.

A note on the law

Kits at this power level exceed Australian road-legal limits for e-bikes, so they are for off-road and private property use only. Our guide to Australian eBike law covers what is and is not road legal.

Ready to build? Start with a conversion kit, add a battery, and send us a photo of your bike if you want a second opinion on fit.